Wagamama’s Veganuary ‘chicken’ kare lomen is worth a trip. This is flavourful, clever, and satisfying food for both vegan and non-vegan.
In a fresh venture for The QR, the editor was invited to sample Wagamama’s self-described ‘show stopping’ offering for Veganuary 2023: vegan ‘chicken’ kare lomen. Swapping the stalls for an exclusive supper club hosted at the St. Andrew’s Square branch of the Japanese restaurant chain, and accompanied by my extremely foodie wife, this was The QR’s first, but hopefully not last, foray into the world of food criticism.
Veganuary at Wagamama is looking extremely tasty
Neither of us being vegan ourselves, the food nonetheless proved both yummy and surprising. First to the table was a golden plate of vegan chilli ‘squid’. Strips of lightly battered king oyster mushrooms, coated with spicy shichimi, these crispy delights came with a piqant, and sticky dipping sauce rich with fresh chilli and coriander. The only issue came with those ‘squid’ buried deeper within the generous pile, made greasier by oil draining down from the topmost morsels. This did not in anyway prevent the plate returning to the kitchen clean as a whistle.
Up next, the sticky vegan ‘ribs’ – tender bars of cleverly combined mushroom and soya protein – arrived coated in a sweet & spicy sauce, sesame seeds and spring onion. As tender as their non-vegan counterparts, the well flavoured flesh ripped pleasingly. My wife, and co-reviewer, Mrs. QR, felt these would benefit from something fresh or sharp to cut through the savoury punch.
Accompanying these first offerings was a bowl of wonderfully well-steamed edamame, simply salted, and simply delicious. Mrs. QR however thought them just a little bit over-salted, and unusually for all things leguminous, left the final few pods for my consumption.
Two more warm-up acts were offered before the headline kare lomen took the stage: vegetable yasai gyoza, and sticky miso corn. The gyoza were perfectly executed, the textural yasai wrappers a welcome point of difference. The dipping sauce divided myself from Mrs. QR, being too sweet for my tastes, but just right for hers (something to cut through all the savoury on offer). For us, the miso corn, however, proved the least successful course. Though nicely cooked, the sweetness of the corn was overwhelmed by the umami hit of the glaze. Served as thick rounds, there was a little too much inedible surface area coated with sauce, and thus donated to most mouthfuls. A swich to coins (thinner rounds), or perhaps baby corn, might redress this balance, showcasing the undoubtedly tasty virtues of the dish.
With introductions to the Wagamama vegan menu made, it was time for the main event. Fortunately the vegan ‘chicken’ kare lomen turned out equal to its star billing, presenting as the most luxurious bowl of the evening. Udon noodles in a bowl of coconut broth with a gentle chilli heat, topped with vegan teriyaki ‘chicken’ and dressed with coriander, beansprouts and cucumber, it also ate very, very well. Critically, the flavoursome ‘chicken’ holds both its bite, and does not turn the least mushy, when submerged in the light, and lovely broth. Now The QR’s table was amongst the last to see its kare lomen arrive, featuring cucumber and beansprouts lacking in crispness (sat out in a hot kitchen perhaps?). Much, however, can be forgiven of a kitchen faced with serving a party of 40+ diners identical dishes simultaneously. Neither I, nor Mrs. QR, would hestitate to order the vegan ‘chicken’ kare lomen on a return visit this January. It’s a clever bowl of food, hearty but not heavy, and full of lovely textures and flavours.
A reminder, if one is needed, that the vegan ‘chicken’ kare lomen is only available until the end of January 2023. For the rest of the year, you’ll just have to make do with the regular 50% plant-based Wagamama menu.
Partnership with The Bread and Butter Thing
Accompanying the launch of this dish, is a new partnership between Wagamama and The Bread and Butter Thing, a national charitable enterprise which brings low-cost food to deprived communities. Financial support from Wagamama will help the charity deliver 1 million affordable meals worth of food, whilst selected restaurants will offer ‘warm and inclusive community spaces’ as part of The Bread and Butter Thing’s Warm Hub initiative.
Promoting local cultural enterprise
On hand for the evening were artists from the Fountainbridge based Edinburgh Printmakers, who deftly mentored the invitees through printing their own tote bags. A fabulously local touch, it certainly added some interactive, and memorable fun to the night, as well as helping promote the work of this beloved local institution. If you’ve ever considered taking up the printing arts, be it to create your own stamp, design your own fabrics, or aspire to be the next Hokusai, the Edinburgh Printmakers stand ready to induct you.
Cocktails
Mrs. QR would like to add her new, and likely enduring admiration for Wagamama’s Sakura pink Gin & Tonic. Craft roku gin, fever tree tonic, fresh lime, and a sprinkle of dried rose petals, lovely in themselves are elevated to absolute deliciousness by a generous glug of cherry blossom syrup. All in all a glass of refreshing sour citrus, set off beautifully by subtle, distinct cherry kiss. If the Kare Lomen and other vegan delights weren’t enough to summon us back, this lovely libation would seal the deal.
If you’re reading Wagamama, be a chum and reward the staff
The QR would also like to note that with the supper club being a promotional event, and the diners not paying, the Wagamama staff on shift for the evening were working without the opportunity for tips. Anyone who has worked in the hospitalty industry will know that tips are often the difference between a barely adequate wage, and a living one. Therefore it’s worth observing that the staff performed excellently throughout the event, efficient, personable and continually on the ball. The QR hopes that Wagamama will recognise their critical part in being the face of the company for the evening (even more so than usual), and boost their incoming wage packets accordingly.
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